| Patrick
Ormond and I did a late August 2004 traverse of Mt. Torment and Forbidden
in the North Cascades. There were no permits left for Boston Basin,
so we had to make the steep approach up to Torment Basin. The climbing
was fantastic: quite good rock, some interesting shrund climbing, and
hard ice traversing due to the low snow/hot summer. We jogged down and
across Boston Basin in the last light, then had to negotiate a tricky
unprotected chimney back up to the ridge in the dark (psychological
crux). The only person we saw was a single hiker far below us in Boston
Basin. A great long day in the mountains. Grade IV, 5.7. |