Patrick Ormond and I did a late August 2004 traverse of Mt. Torment and Forbidden in the North Cascades. There were no permits left for Boston Basin, so we had to make the steep approach up to Torment Basin. The climbing was fantastic: quite good rock, some interesting shrund climbing, and hard ice traversing due to the low snow/hot summer. We jogged down and across Boston Basin in the last light, then had to negotiate a tricky unprotected chimney back up to the ridge in the dark (psychological crux). The only person we saw was a single hiker far below us in Boston Basin. A great long day in the mountains. Grade IV, 5.7.

Approach to Torment Basin


Sunset behind Eldorado

Rap into the shrund

Ice Traverse

Ice Traverse II

Gettin' into it

Great climbing

Traversing up

Solid rock

Forbidden's West Ridge

Top of West Ridge

Summit Forbidden - Half Way

End climb - start scramble

Big Day Daze

Morning Coffee

Cascades Sunset